I used the following contouring tutorial for this effect:
I have a friend who is amazingly gorgeous; intelligent, articulate, and fabulously beautiful. Her facial features always seem to be just perfection.
She made a tutorial for contouring that’s bizarrely easy to follow (I did it today, fairly quickly too!!) and has allowed me to post it here.
I’ve made this into a tutorial about contouring, highlighting and concealing because the line between my highlighting and concealing isn’t very sharp.
As previously mentioned, this is a walk through of how I do my personal contouring. Whenever I put makeup on somebody else the routine is different, according to their face and structure. So to begin with you need to take a good look at your naked face and sort out what you want to bring forward, what you want to hide and what you want to add.
For instance, if you already have a strong jaw line you might want to skip that bit. But instead, maybe you have a wide forehead that could be narrowed down. These techniques can be used on any part of the face (and body, for that matter) as soon as you grasp how they work.
This is what I use to achieve this particular result.
- Thick mid toned concealer (opaque, slightly lighter than the skin): MAC Studio Finish NW20
- Thin mid toned concealer (light reflecting, slightly lighter than the skin): YSL TouchÂ© Eclat 2
- Light concealer (much lighter than the skin): Benefit Lemon-aid
- Dark concealer (the exact same color as the skin): Benefit Boi-ing 02-medium
- Liquid highlighter (subtle pinkish shimmer): Benefit High-beam
- Loose highlighter (chunkier golden shimmer): MAC Pigment Vanilla
- Pressed powder shade (muted grayish beige): MAC Blush Taupe
- Pressed powder color (light bright cool pink): Clinique Blushing Blush Iced Lotus
- Clean warm fingers!
- Concealer brush: MAC #194
- Stripling brush: MAC #187
- Blush brush: MAC #129
- Blending brush: MAC #222
- Eye shading brush: MAC #239
Since the actual changes in shade and finish (on skin) are very subtle this will be hard to demonstrate in photos. Instead, I am going to show you where the color goes, what shape it is applied in and in which direction it is sheered out. Basic blending is assumed on all edges and with all products.
First picture will be isolated color for illustration purposes, second one will be true to life color and built application.
Everything is obviously exaggerated so that you will be able to see.
1. Your clean blank face.
2. First, I use the opaque concealer to cover dark under eye circles (Studio Finish). It is a little bit lighter than my skin since my circles are very dark and they cancel each other out. I apply a thin layer with my fingers since I find that they melt and blend the product into the delicate skin better than any brush. Note how concealer is also applied (with a concealer brush) on some parts of the contour of the lips. This is because I like to paint inside the natural line of my lips and need to conceal the lip-pigmentation.
3. Second, I use the sheerer concealer/highlighter (TouchÂ© Eclat) along the bridge of my nose, to narrow it down, around my nostrils, to reduce the pinkish “bunny nose”, in the corners of my mouth, since they are slightly darker, and in the middle of my chin, to make it look more projected. Just like with every step, product is blended into the skin so that no edges are obvious. I use the built in brush to both apply and blend.
4. Now, I use the “dark” concealer on my brow bone (Boi-ing). This concealer is an exact match to my skin and effectively covers the unnaturally white skin on my brow bone (it never tans or catches up with the rest of my face). Using a thick concealer here is also good if the skin is uneven in texture.
5. Next is the upper lid. I use a very light concealer with a yellow tint (Lemon-aid). It neutralizes the redness and little veins. Since I have discoloration in my lower lid it is natural for the same to be true on the upper. If your lids are smooth and perfect this is totally unnecessary.
6. Now it’s time for the cheekbones. I apply a liquid highlighter (High-beam) with the built in applicator in a sweeping motion under the eyes and towards the hairline. Be sure to quickly blend this one with your fingers as it dries fast and becomes immovable. I don’t suggest to use this product on say the bridge of the nose, but rather on large open spaces that are free from other products.
7. Once the liquid highlighter is dry I like to use a loose powder highlighter on top (Vanilla Pigment). Applied with a stripling brush on the apple of the cheeks and lightly patted along the previous highlighter. A small brush is used to apply the very same product on brow bones and verrry lightly along the bridge of the nose, doing an even narrower line than the last time. Additionally, you can dab the same brush on the middle of you upper lid for roundness (I just forgot to paint this one out).
8. Now for the fun part! Contouring (shading) can be rather flat and dull without the highlighting, but in the end, contouring is what makes the most difference. A pressed powder blush (Taupe) is brushed and built in the hollows of the cheeks. When you extend this color, do so down, not up. Make sure it doesn’t just stop, either. Same blush brush applies this shade along the jawline, but from below. Making it look sharper and more defined. If something can make you look like a million bucks, it’ll be a strong jaw, believe me.
Next, a small fluffy brush contours the nose lightly. Try to accentuate the natural bone rather than adding something that isn’t there. For a narrower nose, contour the sides. For a shorter one, contour from below.
Lastly, the crease of the eye is defined. Sweep up and out at the outer corners.
9. My final step is a touch of flushed natural pink. I apply it gently to the apple of the cheeks, where I would naturally blush, as well as to the tip of the nose and chin, where I would flush in a cold climate. Why? Simply because it’s a cute touch and I like how it looks/adds dimension. Same thing could be done but imitating a light sun burn rather than cold weather. In that case, brush your color of choice (pink or red for a freshly sun kissed look, bronzer for a tan) horizontally across the nose, extending onto the cheeks. In other words: where the sun would naturally hit you.
Thanks babeh for making this for us! I appreciate it!!!
If y’all found this useful, show us some love on the Sugar Network!
I did this look today for the Dallas / New York playoffsÃ¢â‚¬Â¦(Go Cowboys!!!) and figured that while I was waiting for kick off, I would do a tutorial. ?
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Shimma Paint
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Bare Minerals foundation (my preference, of course you can wear what you likeÃ¢â‚¬Â¦)
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Platinum pigment
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Rebel Rock Blue pigment
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Nars Night Clubbing Shadow
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Cover Girl Lash Blast Mascara
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Nars Orgasm blush
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ MAC Light Flush Mineralize Skinfinish
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Frost Pigment
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Blacktrack Fluidline
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Mattene lipstick in Classic Dame
Ã¢â‚¬Â¢ Damzel Lipglass
Do your face/foundation/eyebrows. Mine are in this unbelievably bad growing out phase due to years of over pluckingÃ¢â‚¬Â¦if youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re considering going to super thin eyebrows, let me tell you, it takes YEARS to recover from that.
Shimma paint all over the lid and up a little over the crease. I almost never use this paint, since I donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t much like super shimmery looks on me. That said, itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s a good base for the look I was going for today.
Platinum pigment on the lid. IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢m not sure about the eye safety of this particular pigment, so if in doubt, check and make your own decision.
Rebel Rock Blue pigment in and over your creaseÃ¢â‚¬Â¦bring it a little higher than your crease to give the look shape and definition.
Put a little wing over your outer corner, using Blacktrack and an angled liner brush.
YouÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re going to do the liner in steps, bringing it across the lid and down to the inner corner, matching it up as you go so you can stay as symmetrical as possible.
Take a small round brush and put Nars Night Clubbing Shadow in your crease and make small circles to blend it, to give some depth and three dimensional color to the look. At some point in time youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re also going to put your mascara on. I apparently didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t get a picture of this, but mascara application is mascara application, unless youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re using a special brush (like the MAC 205).
Take a MAC 187 and apply the Light Flush MSF to your cheeks. Make circles covering the whole cheekbone, large swoopy circles.
Put Nars Orgasm over your apples, make them stand out a little more.
Finish this look with Classic Dame lipstick blotted out to a stain on your lips, with Damzel Lipglass over it.
I went through my bathroom and made swatches of all the mineralized skinfinishes I had laid out in a row. The images are thumbnailed, so click them for a larger photo of the product. As I acquire more (that’s to say…after my shopping trip for the N Collection) I will post swatches and photos!
I apply mine using my 187 brush, but I’ve seen others using an angle brush..what do you use?
Image Credit: Jamie AKA Shimmer @ Specktra.net
temptalia posted her review of the Danse collection on the forum.
Like most of the past collections, the eyeshadows were the least interesting part of the launch. I found most of them to have poor color payoff, and the texture to be too frosty and shimmery for my tastes. They tended to flake off quite easily, and again, with so little color payoff, who needs to work extra hard to get what little color to stay? The only eyeshadows that stood out were Rite of Spring and Swan Lake. Rite of Spring I might possibly go back for, but will probably hope and wait that someone decides to sell theirs off the community. It is very similar to Pink Opal pigment (which I have an entire jar, so I really should pass on Rite of Spring altogether!), only in shadow form. It isn’t as flakey as the other shadows, but the finish leaves something to be desired. Swan Lake is a bit different compared to other permanent shadows, because it is a more chalky, dark navy blue. But because it lacks superb color payoff, it does not seem worth getting when Deep Truth eyeshadow can get the job done, too. French Grey would be my third choice out of the six released, but again, it is a bit chalky like Swan Lake, and it is a more brown gray from what I remember. Scene 1 and Jete looked awfully pretty in the pots, but hardly worth mentioning once they were swatched. The pink ends up looking more like a barely pink, mostly white color with too much shimmer, and Jete is similar, only with a slight coral undertone.
If you are into sheer lipsticks, Danse just might be the collection for you! Curtsy was my favorite lipstick out of the launch, because it is a lovely coral color that is sheer enough to wear with anything, but with enough color power to be the focal point of a look, depending on application. Besides, coral lips look the best on me (IMHO), so I couldn’t resist. Danse is an absolutely lovely color, but it reminds me too much of Pink Maribu. The texture was nice, and the color payoff would make it a worthwhile lipstick for anyone thinking about getting it. Both Classical and Russe lipsticks were ridiculously sheer on my skin; I could barely see them as a swatch, so I knew that these were not for me. I would much rather wear tinted chapstick or lip conditioner than worry about a fading lipstick that you can hardly see in the beginning.
If you like lipglasses, you will probably find at least one that you will love out of the four released. I personally liked all four, but forced myself to only buy three (I know, I am so good at control, harhar!). Pas-de-deux is not half as crazy on as it does in the tube; I mean, really, a silvery lipgloss, what was MAC thinking… Oh, they were thinking! One of my favorite pigments to use everywhere BUT the eyes is Pink Opal pigment, and I think MAC must have been inspired by this color as it wasi n Rite of Spring eyeshadow, but it is also apparent in Pas-de-deux lipglass. It is a lovely sheer, irridescent lipglass that will give a slight multi-color tint to whatever color you have on your lips. En Pointe is soft, pastel pink that will look great on just about anybody. It is not over-the-top pink, like Standing Ovation, but much more wearable and subtle. Speaking of Standing Ovation, it is a worthwhile lipglass if you do not already have a decent hot pink lipglass. It is not like Pink Poodle lipglass, which is very thick, but similar to Wild Girl lipglass (discontinued). It is sheer, but it does have color to give you. It is perfect for brightening up any lipstick or giving a deep pink tinge to naked lips. Corps-de-ballet is also a great lipglass, but it does not offer anything that the existing permanent line does not already. While awfully gorgeous, simply not stand-out enough to get right this moment.
Aire-de-blu pigment is not like Azreal Blue. Oh, they are similar, but their textures are so drastically different that the way they apply makes it worth having both, if you use blues more than once every six months. It is a paler blue, and not nearly as shimmery as Azreal Blue. Pastorale pigment is not like Golder’s Green, which resembles a mix between Golden Olive and Kelly Green, but rather a pale, pastel green that is not at all bright. It is a great green to layer paler, more olive-toned greens over.
What can I really say about the new mineralize skinfinishes that will make you want them or hate them? I have never liked mineralize skinfinishes, and I know that that puts me in the minority. Lightscapade looks divine in its pot, because of all the gorgeous colors swirling together. I would say I like this one more than Glissade only because it reminds me a lot of how Pink Opal pigment looks when I use it as a highlight. Glissade might work best to add a more bronzy glow to skin, but I am not positive it will work for everyone, because it is more pigmented than Lightscapade.
I could never wear this color, because it is simply over-the-top frosty. It is a shiny, almost chrome-like, white nail polish that goes on a bit sheerly (as most MAC nail polish does, though). It just looks odd on my nails, but I also do not wear nail polish regularly, so I might not be used to seeing color on my nails regardless.
Overall I thought Danse was probably worth the wait for many of its admirers. I picked up plenty of stuff, but I could have skipped the mineralize skinfinishes without missing a beat. Damn the “sell out” mentality we all have as MAC addicts. The only “must-have” out of this collection would be Pas-de-deux, because it absolutely lovely for changing or creating a duo-chrome effect on your lips. I ended up purchasing: Curtsy lipstick; En Pointe, Pas-de-deux, & Standing Ovation lipglasses; Aire-de-blu and Pastorale pigments; and Glissade and Lightscapade mineralize skinfinishes.”