Help Translating Make Up Looks to suit cool toned LoC

moondeva

Active member
I want to try out a make up look that I saw on an up and coming starlet recently but I immediately realise that her colouring is as far away from me on the scale as possible - so there is no way that I just 'lift' the look to try it...

She is pale 'bottle milk' white, I am deep milk chocolate. She has warm yellow undertones, mine are cool and (reddy)blue. So, obviously having too much time on my hands, I have already 'translated' / worked out 'alternative' colours that will look similar but will suit my intense, deep winter Afro-Caribbean colouring.

Here is the makeup look I want to recreate:



(click on image to enlarge)

I am thinking (for my deeper / cooler colouring) I would use:
All Over Base / Brow Highlight: Matte White Shadow (e.g: MAC Gesso)
Eyelid Base: Dark grey cream shadow / liner (e.g: MAC Sharkskin shadestick or lightly applied / sheered out MAC Blacktrack Fluidline)
Eyelid Colour: Dark silver / grey eyeshadow (e.g: MAC Silver Ring)
Crease Colour: ???
Outer 3rd & V: Deep matte grey eyeshadow (e.g: MAC Grey Stone, Scene or Print)
Inner 2/3rds: Silver / grey Frost (e.g: MAC Cumulus or Electra)
Eyeliner: Deepest Black liquid / cream liner (e.g: MAC Blacktrack Fluidline)
Tightline / Waterline: Black Khol Pencil / cream liner (e.g: MAC Smolder kohl pencil or Blacktrack Fluidline)
Under Eye Liner / Shadow: Dark matte / satin neutral brown shadow (e.g: MAC Espresso (matte) or MAC Patina)
Eyebrow: Dark matte neutral brown shadow (e.g: MAC Espresso)
Mascara: Deepest Black (eg: MAC Plush Black)

I'd chose different blush and lipstick tones due to my cooler / winter colouring:

Blusher: muted sheer berry / burgundy (e.g: MAC Loverush)
Lipliner / Base: muted LBB liner (e.g: MAC Spice)
Lipstick: muted burgundy / dark taupe (e.g: MAC Midimauve)

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As you can see I have one problem, and it is one that can make of break my attempt to pull off this look.

I have no idea what to use in the crease colour!!
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If I had warm undertones or had a tan then I would choose something like MAC Embark or Swiss Chocolate but I know already that they will be too red and I will look ill. I can't use my usual neutral dark taupes because they are too cool for the look.

So what to use??
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Can you wonderful ladies (and gentlemen) recommend a deep, reddish 'warm chocolate' eyeshadow with essentially cool undertones please?

Would MAC Blackberry, Folie or Corduroy work - or should I just try the Embark and hope that no one asks about my 'allergies'?
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TIA
 
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