Some WOC are forced to use two colours to blend a shade that works for their skintone especially as most major cosmetic companies insist that most women of colour come in only two shades - caramel and coffee.
Example:
My foundation colour for most of the year (cold UK) falls between two foundation colours: NW43 & NW45 so in order not to look too ashy or muddy (too light or too dark) I have to blend these two foundations to get my shade of NW44. Even worse I find MAC's foundations tend to run too red in the darker colours so sometimes I end up having to mix three foundations (NW43, NW45 AND NC50) to get a decent match for my deep cool toned skin.
Check out Scott Barnes book 'About Face' for all you need to know about subtly contouring a face using light and dark concealer / foundation. It applies across the board for women of all colouring but can be most significant on WOC because the central higher planes of their face can be one or two shades lighter than the perimetre. Taking the time to use different coloured foundations where they are needed helps to lesson the mask effect that can sometimes happen when a lady, due to expense, tries to do her whole face in one foundation.
Example:
I will use a concealer 2 shades light than my usual foundation (NW44 see above) on the higher planes of my face to highlight - centre of forehead, down centre of nose, mid chin and under my eyes on the high point of my cheek bones.
I will then use a concealer 1 - 2 shades darker than my foundation to create the hollow effect under my cheekbones, under my chin along the jaw line and around my hairline / temples (in a 3 figure shape) to define my features.
I will then carefully apply a thin coating of my usual foundation in between and over the concealer so that the edges are blurred and the whole is seamlessly blended.
Check out Rae Morris's Make Up: The Ultimate Guide for a great section on highlighting which will help.
Now, concerning colours for daytime looks it really does depend on the undertone of the woman you are making up. Approximately 70% will be warm / yellow / gold undertoned so you will find the following colours useful:
All That Glitters - lid shimmer
Amber Lights - lid colour
Woodwinked - lid colour
Saddle - matte lid colour
Swiss Chocolate - crease
Wedge
Tan pigment - lid colour
Sable - lid colour
Tempting - crease colour
Romping
Brule - matte base / lid colour
Shroom - popular lid colour, sometimes a highlight but may complain that it is too light / ashy.
Arena - popular highlight
Bronze - lid colour
Patina - lid colour
Mulch - crease / definer
Espresso - liner / definer
Sable - lid colour
Satin Taupe - lid colour
Twinks - crease
Trax - crease
Embark - crease
Cork - crease
Mystery - liner / definer
Black Tied /
Carbon - Liner / definer
100 Strokes - liner definer
Once in a while you will have a rare bird like myself come in who is a Milk Chocolate DDD with distinct cool undertones. For ladies like myself, who do not like wearing warmer tones or the coral / bronzed / golden look look too products that have a plummy undertone (true blue undertoned make up can be a bit harsh even for we cooler girls in winter). A few neutral colours for us will include:
Concrete - line / define
Graphology - liner definer
Swiss Chocolate - crease
Corduroy - crease
Handwritten - line / define
Yogurt - matte base / lid colour
Bisque - matte base / lid colour
Malt - matte base / lid colour
Haux - matte crease
Vex - unusual duochrome lid colour
Satin Taupe - lid colour
Scene - crease
Coquette - crease
Shadowy Lady - liner definer
Omega - muted lid / base
Blackberry - muted matte crease (very natural and wearable)
Signed Sealed - liner definer
I am currently working my way through the MAC eyeshadows to find other eyeshadows that actually work with my cool tones. For now I tend to rely upon pigments for my lid colour:
Mauvement - this is a HG piggie for me that works well with whatever base or other shadows you mix it with. It tends to turn taupe gold on me as my plummy undertones cancel out it's plummy base. However, if applied over a plummy, purple base this is no longer a problem. The 'sticky' base helps hold the mauvement in place so that it lasts longer befor breakdown into a less distinct shimmer on the eye.
Deep Purple - this with a veil of Mauvement on the inner third of the eye is my perfect 'gilded plum,' my lids but so much better (glamorous, elegant but understated) eyehadow.
Subtle - this is everything I had wanted
All that Glitters to be on my lids. Just like its name a subtle, sheeny champagney colour perfect for everyday looks. I hope MAC repromotes this so that I can get a back up jar.
Sweet Sienna - this is a tres elegant grey based taupe shimmer on me.
Softwash Grey - great lid colour.
I do hope this has been of some help to you! I'd love some feedback if you do find any of it helpful to you.
PS. MAC have some videos up showing different techniques and I believe the 'Monochromatic Make Up with Gregory' tutorial is just what you need to see!
Here is the link:
http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/makeup_artistry/video_monochromatic.tmpl
