A lot of people swear by Clarins, but to me, meeehhh...didn't like it. Smelled bad and didn't work all that great.
I am an NW25 and I adore the Estee Lauder Self Tan in Dark and the Estee Lauder Self Tan Go Bronze Plus tinted tanner. Sometimes I think the tinted tanner is too much colour if I have gotten a bit pale, so I cut it with the other self tanner that isn't tinted. The smell is perfumey, but gradually fades to a slight, well, self-tanner smell. It isn't too bad though.
For a good fake tan without the self tanner, I mix a bronzer gel or lotion with Strobe cream. It keeps the bronzing gel/lotion more natural looking and gives you a great glow.
I totally agree with the exfoliating. I always do that first. Then I moisturize my eyes and lips. Then I apply the self tanner. Then with Qtips or a washcloth, I wipe my brows and hair line to make sure it doesn't build up there and give me big orange streaks. Oh, and always wash your hands well. You only have to have streaky, orange palms once to learn that lesson!