technical makeup question - need help pls

[kissacid]

I was wondering if anyone knows the technique Pat Mcgrath uses to hide/completely cover eyebrows so beautifully for her runway shows? any kind of feedback is much appreciated! thank you!

 

[Bianca]

I don't know if this is any use to you, but I heard of stuff called: kryolan. I don't know if they sell it where you live but I know it is used for theater etc.

 

[caffn8me]

Here goes;

• Using a clean (preferably disposable) mascara wand, brush spirit gum such as Kryolan Hydro Spirit Gum (water based) or regular spirit gum agains the direction of growth of the hairs to coat the underside. Allow the gum to dry a bit so it becomes tacky and press down the brow hairs flat against the skin. If you use regular spirit gum remember that you will need spirit gum remover (such as Kryolan's MME) to dissolve it when you come to remove your make-up.
• Cut some Kryolan Eyebrow Plastic off the stick and work it between your fingers until it is warmed up and softened and all lumps have gone.
• Spread the softened eyebrow plastic thinly over the brows starting from the centre and working outwards. You can use your fingers or for better results use a metal spatula dipping it regularly in warm water to help it glide over the wax. You can build up several layers until the brow hairs are completely embedded and not showing.
• When you have enough wax on the brows, use a latex sponge dipped in colourless powder (tap the excess powder off first) and press it down firmly onto the wax. Do this all along and around the brows. This gives the wax a slightly stippled texture which is more like real skin. Dust off excess powder.
• Use another disposable latex sponge to apply a thin layer of Lashfix eyelash adhesive over and extending slightly beyond the wax. This forms a skin over the wax and seals it. You can also use Kryolan Sealor but I prefer the latex Lashfix formulation as it can give a better skin texture.
• You are now ready to apply a foundation but make sure that the foundation is compatible with latex as water based foundations won't usually cover the Lashfix layer very well. Any of M·A·C Full Coverage, Kryolan TV Paint Stick, Dermablend or Dermacolor will work.
• If you want to you can now very carefully draw in new eyebrows using either a very soft eyebrow pencil or eyeshadow with a brush. You can also use a stencil (such as one from Eyebrowz as a guide.

 

[martygreene]

Quote:

Originally Posted by caffn8me Here goes; Using a clean (preferably disposable) mascara wand, brush spirit gum such as Kryolan Hydro Spirit Gum (water based) or regular spirit gum agains the direction of growth of the hairs to coat the underside. Allow the gum to dry a bit so it becomes tacky and press down the brow hairs flat against the skin. If you use regular spirit gum remember that you will need spirit gum remover (such as Kryolan's MME) to dissolve it when you come to remove your make-up. Cut some Kryolan Eyebrow Plastic off the stick and work it between your fingers until it is warmed up and softened and all lumps have gone. Spread the softened eyebrow plastic thinly over the brows starting from the centre and working outwards. You can use your fingers or for better results use a metal spatula dipping it regularly in warm water to help it glide over the wax. You can build up several layers until the brow hairs are completely embedded and not showing. When you have enough wax on the brows, use a latex sponge dipped in colourless powder (tap the excess powder off first) and press it down firmly onto the wax. Do this all along and around the brows. This gives the wax a slightly stippled texture which is more like real skin. Dust off excess powder. Use another disposable latex sponge to apply a thin layer of Lashfix eyelash adhesive over and extending slightly beyond the wax. This forms a skin over the wax and seals it. You can also use Kryolan Sealor but I prefer the latex Lashfix formulation as it can give a better skin texture. You are now ready to apply a foundation but make sure that the foundation is compatible with latex as water based foundations won't usually cover the Lashfix layer very well. Any of M·A·C Full Coverage, Kryolan TV Paint Stick, Dermablend or Dermacolor will work. If you want to you can now very carefully draw in new eyebrows using either a very soft eyebrow pencil or eyeshadow with a brush. You can also use a stencil (such as one from Eyebrowz as a guide.

That's very similar to my technique, I find that for thinner brows I can use nose putty in place of eyebrow plastic. Nose putty is much softer and slightly more adhesive to the skin I find. I also don't use spirit gum, rather I use Ad-Med adhesive, which is a medical grade skin adhesive which in most cases is hypoallergenic. Mehron carries it. I'll also do a sealant layer before I do the liquid latex layer (which is what lashfix is essentially, a thinned liquid latex), which helps keep everything in place and happy.

This is a technique that really takes a bit of practice, and the right materials.

 

[caffn8me]

Once you've mastered the technique it works really well and can stand up to close scrutiny but it does take a bit of practice as Martygreene says.

 

[caffn8me]

If you have fine eyebrows you might also be able to use a glue stick (the standard sort used for sticking paper available from any office supply store) instead of eyebrow plastic or nose putty. This was demonstrated quite effectively at a M·A·C master class I attended in Atlanta a couple of weeks ago.

Kevyn Aucoin's book "Making Faces" also shows the technique of hiding eyebrows.

 

[user79]

Can someone help me - I understand the technique, but do you absolutely need spirit gum? Also, how do you get the wax off once you're done, without ripping out all your eyebrow hairs? Do you need a special remover, or alcohol, or what?

 

[Le-Saboteur]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissChievous Can someone help me - I understand the technique, but do you absolutely need spirit gum? Also, how do you get the wax off once you're done, without ripping out all your eyebrow hairs? Do you need a special remover, or alcohol, or what?

If you have thin enough eyebrows you won't necesarily have to use spirit gum, I've seen drag queens just rub the wax over their eyebrows and then cover it with foundation, and that stuck through a few hours of dancing on stage. It is generally a better idea to use spirit gum underneath though, some waxes are a pain in the ass otherwise (well, they are anyway).

The wax will usually just peel off if you get your fingernail/spatula underneath it, it's the residue from the gum that is a hassle. There is spirit gum remover which usually does the trick for me. If there's still little bits of wax left, try using baby oil on a cloth pad to get rid of it.

 

[user79]

Ah ok...so I won't have to worry about it removing brow hairs? It will just kind of...crumble off? I really want to try the brow wax method without spirit gum because I wouldn't have it on for long. But I was just worried that it would rip out my brows when I tried to get it off or just be extremely sticky. Does the wax stick by itself to your skin or is that why spirit gum is used, to make it stick?

 

[Le-Saboteur]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissChievous Ah ok...so I won't have to worry about it removing brow hairs? It will just kind of...crumble off? I really want to try the brow wax method without spirit gum because I wouldn't have it on for long. But I was just worried that it would rip out my brows when I tried to get it off or just be extremely sticky. Does the wax stick by itself to your skin or is that why spirit gum is used, to make it stick?

I've never used a wax that had enough stick by itself to tear out eyebrow hairs. Every product's different though, so. So far the ones I have used have just peeled off. The wax does not generally stick to your skin that well, which is why spirit gum or some other adhesive is used, but like I said, I've seen some people just chuck it on anyway, with no adhesive underneath. Just give it a try I guess *shrug* There should be some way to remove the product without it ripping hair out, otherwise it wouldn't be sold.

 

[caffn8me]

The wax won't remove your brow hairs. It's a very soft wax that doesn't set at all hard. It can be removed easily. You might find the wax doesn't stick down around the edges very well if you don't use spirit gum but don't be afraid to experiment (as long as you have some spirit gum remover!)