Do not copy or link this review to any other website, blog or forum w/o my explicit permission!
I've got half a day off - and most important, I have a laptop rather than a smart device, so typing longer posts is easier - so here are my thoughts:
Elude b/p: IMO, this is the star product of this collection as it captures both a high-quality and unique product while delivering a packaging that certainly feels "couture." Please note that my review is based on NW15 skin (I'm NW20 during the summer).
Let me start with the packaging. As soon as you get your hands on Elude, you'll notice how heavy the compact feels. While I utterly love the design of the Marcel Wanders compact, I was missing the heavy weight that adds to the "expensive" component of a $60 compact. Elude is very heavy and even after 4 weeks of using it, I'm still surprised about how heavy it feels when I pick it up. The metal of the compact adds an certain
je ne sais quoi expensiveness to it that fully complements the Gareth Pugh design. Having said that, if you want to carry it around in your handbag, it certainly adds weight to it. However, the design looks so luxurious that it will instantly vamp up every cosmetic stash.
On my NW15 skin, the powder blends in effortlessly, leaving a semi-matte sheen. If you look closely, the powder contains tiny micro-light-reflecting particles that will pick up the light w/o looking shiny or sparkly. In fact, you have to look closely to discover the glitter, rendering the powder in an understated sheen that is neither matte nor overly glowy. I find the 131 brush best to apply over F&B in N1 or N2 - set with P+P powder, in which case the dewy-ness of the F&B still comes through while Elude add another dimension of sheen that is different from F&B. I recommend using a light hand, especially as the powder is very soft, thus a harder brush (e.g. a kabuki) might pick up too much product. I use the 131 on the planes of the face and buff it slightly out with the 179 or the GP 182. For added highlighting, I use the 169 (as it picks up more product in comparison to the 168) and brush it on, blending out the edges with the 131 again. It is amazing how much dimension you can achieve using Elude with the right brushes. I would not recommend a heavy application as it will most certainly look cakey. I also used the 187, but Elude it is more a brush-on rather than a stipple-on product, thus I'll stick to the 131.
While the Sheer Mystery Powders from previous years had a slightly yellow tint to it, I feel that Elude is much more neutral, in which case it will work well for both NC and NW complexions. If you are darker than NW20, I imagine that you can use it as a highlighting powder, especially due to the translucent nature, which highlights w/o covering up. For those in the NW10 - 20 range with slight redness (like me), Elude is a divine product as the shade slightly cancels out redness w/o adding a white cast - which might look ghostly. Mind you, it is not intended for covering and some redness will still show through. My redness is in the cheeks - like a natural flush - so Elude neutralizes the red w/o completely erasing it. It's simply divine for a natural porcelain look. I have not tried out a heavy coverage nor will I do so as I personally dislike cakey looks. However, it might still work.
The formula is as nourishing as it can go for a powder. I compared it previously with the Estee Lauder Re-Nutritive Comfort Powder in "Translucent" and the formula comes very close. As mentioned by previous posters, the texture can also be compared to the MAC's Careblend formula, though I find it slightly more nourishing.
Here is a comparison swatch of the EL powder/Elude (excuse my hit-pan compact).
The EL version is slightly darker, which shows how light Elude actually is and what kind of effect can be achieved. If you are between NW10 and NW20, it is a must-have product IMO as MAC has not released a shade like this nor do I assume that it will release another color that light any time soon.
Yes, $60 does not come cheap, but as the EL powder was already around $50, I do not mind spending an extra 10 bucks, especially as the design of the compact is so much more luxurious in comparison to the EL one. There is a little pin-hole at the back of the compact, which should allow you to depot the compact and replace it, but I have not tried it out (nor will I any time soon). If you do, please report back.
PS: I tried to photograph it again this morning, but due to the nature of the product and how it is supposed to be applied, it is impossible to photograph. A heavy swatch will certainly show up but as this is not the intention of the product, it is pointless to photograph it that way IMO.
